Introduction
I hope you enjoy the free furniture plans available on this site. The above picture is a 4-foot "classic beadboard" wall shelf (as we call it). This is by far the most popular wall shelf we have made because it is fairly simple and cheap to make and it looks great. The details of the project don't require a lot of material, but they do require some tools. Please take a look at the plans below and ask me any questions you may have. I hope you enjoy this project. We are given these to all my siblings for Christmas. The best part about it is they are only $5-$10 each (unpainted).
Cost: $15
Time: 2-4 hours
Difficulty: Medium
Tools Required
Cost: $15
Time: 2-4 hours
Difficulty: Medium
Tools Required
- Tape measure
- Table saw
- Jig saw
- Miter saw
- Air Compressor
- Pneumatic brad nail gun(s)
- Router table or handheld router
- 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch roundover router bit
Optional
Lumber and Materials
- 1” x 6” x 8’ whitewood board
- Beadboard v-groove panel or planks
- High quality spray paint
- Ring picture hangers or a keyhole hangers if you don't have a keyhole bit with your router
Consumable
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper
- Wood filler
- 5/8” 18 gauge brad nails
- 1” 18 gauge brad nails (or staples)
- 2"-2 1/2" 16 gauge nails
STEPS:
1. Cut the 1x6x8 into three pieces:
Make a 90 degree crosscut to make the following pieces:
- 46” (going to be the top)
- 40” (going to be the rails)
- 9” (going to be the corbel)
2. 2” Rip On the table saw:
Set up the table saw up to rip 2” strips. Cut the 40” inch piece into three pieces. This will require two cuts. After the first rip, set aside the two inch strip and then cut it once more. The left over piece will be a little less than an inch and a half. This piece will be used.
3. Corbel Template:
Trace the corbel layout below on the 9-inch by 5 1/2-inch piece
of wood.
4. Cut out the corbels:
Use
a jig saw to cut the corbels out.
5. Sand the Wood:
Sand the corbels to get smooth curves. I like to clamp the corbels
together and then sand them with my orbital sander or sheet sander. If you
don’t have these, you can sand them by hand. Sand the other parts of the shelf as well.
6. Cut the bead boarding:
Get your bead board piece and rip cut it 8 1/2-inch on the table saw
(make sure the grooves are vertical at 8 1/2-inch. Cut the bead board on the miter saw at about 41 3/16 inches long.
Router the three bottom outside facing sides of the top piece (46”
piece).
Router the two bottom edges of the front rail. Router the outside facing top and bottom edges of the bottom rail. Router one edge of the back rail.
At this point, router the keyhole in the two corbels. See my keyhole bit tutorial here.
8. Assemble the shelf:
Place the pieces on a smooth, flat surface. Place the corbels up and
put the back and bottom rail in place. With your pneumatic nail gun, nail them
in place with at least two long nails (nails 2" to 2 1/2"). Put the top rail in
place and nail it with your nail gun.
Put
the top piece in place and center it. Nail in the sides and back. Line up the
front and nail it in. Place nails about every six inches.
9. Install the beadboard:
Line up the beadboard on the
back of the shelf. With a jig saw, notch out the keyhole slot or a place for
the ring picture hangers or a keyhole hangers. Be careful not to notch it out
too big or you will see the notch on the front. Place the key holes about 2/3
or ¾ of the way up on the back.
Place adhesive on around the bead board and nail it in on the corbels and long the top piece. Place clamps where the adhesive is and let it dry.
Place adhesive on around the bead board and nail it in on the corbels and long the top piece. Place clamps where the adhesive is and let it dry.
10. Finishing touches:
Fill the nail holes in with wood filler. After it has dried, sand the
wood filler.
Paint the shelf with high quality spray paint. I like to use the
Rustoleum brand furniture spray paint. Apply several light coats to prevent
drips and runs.
If
desired, sand edges to create a distressed look.
11. Hang the shelf:
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